Recent Posts, Posted by Matt in ALL DESTINATIONS,Jeju,Nature, 9 Comments

Climbing Hallasan Mountain on Jeju Island

South Korea is covered in mountains, so it’s always seemed odd to me that the nation’s highest point isn’t on the peninsula, but on Jeju Island. But the 1,950-meter Hallasan mountain (한라산) is indeed South Korea’s rooftop.

From Korea’s Amazing Jeju Island

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The locals say that Jeju and Hallasan are essentially one and the same.  And from the vantage point of my incoming flight, I could see why.  The entire island looked like one giant volcano, with Hallasan mountain’s gentle slopes advancing from its peak down into the sea.

The previous night my friend and I had stayed up late enjoying the Jeongwol Daeboreum Fire Festival. But that didn’t mean we could sleep in. Our itinerary had us climbing Hallasan mountain, and besides hoping to beat the crowds, we were under time constraints. To ensure hikers can safely descend before nightfall, the final two kilometers of the nearly 10-km icy slog to the summit closes at noon.

Although there are five trails, currently only three access the summit. The eastern Seongpanak (성판악) route is 9.6-km, less arduous and has more traffic. The 7-km Donnaeko Trail was just opened to visitors after 15 years. The 8.7-km Gwaneumsa Temple (관음사) trail to the north is less popular, but more difficult. Feeling up to the task, we opted for the latter.

At dawn we were underway, and for the first stretch, the trail followed an impressive, though mostly dry streambed. As the light permeated the leaf-less canopy of branches, I noticed an attractive bamboo groundcover I don’t recall seeing on any other Korean mountain.

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But about an hour and a half into our hike there was snow underfoot, and 15 minutes later, we were slipping and sliding. Unlike typical Korean hikers in their fluorescent Gore-Tex gear and supplies worthy of a Mt. Everest expedition, we didn’t have hiking poles or ice-climbing boots. The icy path was narrow and steep and, to make things worse, my messenger-style backpack filled with our provisions hung awkwardly off my lower back. But thankfully we had picked up some spiked bands for our tennis shoes, and they came in handy over the next several hours.

This was especially true when we started confronting a steady stream of fellow hikers. These early birds had taken the northern trail and were now on their way down. The trail wasn’t wide enough to accommodate two lanes of traffic and neither side was eager to yield to let the other pass.

But about two kilometers from the top we came upon a wonderful oasis. A small building served what tasted like the world’s most delicious instant noodles. The soup and some gimbap gave us energy for our final ascent. Our spirits buoyed, the final leg was spectacular.

From Korea’s Amazing Jeju Island

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We could see the hundreds of little secondary volcanoes that dot Jeju Island’s landscape. Further, Jeju City hugged the island’s rugged coastline. In our immediate vicinity were the white trunks of stunted and dead fir trees, killed by the cold and wind. Acres of just exposed lava rock and snow made a nice contrast of white on black. Minutes later, we had reached the top of Hallasan mountain. The summit featured a familiar site in hiking-crazy Korea: hundreds of smiling climbers snapping photos.

From Korea’s Amazing Jeju Island

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At Hallasan mountain’s tip is a massive crater with a circumference of 1.7-kilometers that is over 100 meters deep. Its name, Baengnokdam (백록담) comes from a legend that mountain gods once played there with roe deer, more than 1,000 of which are said to still inhabit the crater and elsewhere on Hallasan. Featuring a shallow lake, it’s designated one of Jeju’s 10 scenic wonders.

From Korea’s Amazing Jeju Island

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So, we had done it! Sure, it would be another four hours before we returned to the bottom, but we felt good knowing that Hallasan mountain, South Korea’s highest point, had just been conquered!.
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For your information…

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	Entrance to Hallasan National Park is allowed at 05:00 from May-Aug, 05:30 Mar-Apr and Sep-Oct, and from 06:00 between Nov-Feb.		Free Admission		064-1330
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	Jeju Island Jeju-si Haean-dong		From Jeju Intercity Bus Terminal, to reach Eorimok, take bus #1100 (35 mins.); To reach Seongpanak, take bus #5.16 (30 mins.)		website
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