Fall Color at Bukhan Mountain

Phenomenal views from the top of Bukhansan Mountain.

Bukhansan Mountain (also known as Samgak Mountain) has formed much of Seoul’s northern border since the Joseon Dynasty. The name means “mountain north of the Han river”… which is exactly where it is! Today, one of Korea’s oldest national parks covers nearly 80 square kilometers and features 1,300 different types of plant and animal life. Something I noticed shortly after moving to Korea was that Koreans love hiking, and the 5 million of them who visit Bukhansan annually make the park the world’s busiest, in terms of the number of visitors and park size.

During much of Korea’s history, the mountain was hotly contested. An earthen fortress was built here in 132 by a Baekje king who sought to stop the southward expansion of the rival Gogurye. After battles against the Mongols, the Japanese, and the Manchus, in 1711, the Joseon King Sukjong (숙종) greatly expanded the wall by constructing a stone fort on top of the original fortress’ ruins. Today, the 12.7-kilometer wall encircles more than 1,600 acres.

Bukhan Mountain’s most popular spots are its dramatic granite peaks. The most famous is Baekundae, which tops off at 836.5 meters. During the final half-kilometer of my ascent, the smooth and steep granite surface required me to hoist myself up via metal cables. Exhausted, during a break, I could hear the faint chanting of Buddhist monks whose temples dot the mountainside.

After summiting, I enjoyed the spectacular view. Seoul’s northern reaches were in clear sight. I could see the Han River winding its way through the city with Seoul Tower in the distance. Below me, I noticed a halmoni, or grandmother. She had chosen a rocky perch to bow, pray and make offerings of food. I’d heard this was a common part of Korean shamanism. I’m not sure if that’s what she was doing, but 40 minutes later, this 80-year-old woman took her cane and started making her way back down the granite mountainside.

On my way back down, I met two hikers who suggested descending via a couple of beautiful valleys. The lush tree foliage formed verdant canopies over the stone steps and small streams. I guess I was distracted by all of the beauty because I made one or two wrong turns and found myself at a large Buddhist temple.

Doseon Temple belongs to Korea’s Jogye Buddhist order. Built during Korea’s Silla period, the faithful still come here to pray for the nation’s defense. The temple is best known for a 30-foot tall image of Buddha that’s carved into a cliff. According to legend, in the 9th Century, a monk split a huge rock in half with a tap of his cane and created the image through supernatural powers.

As a nature lover, I certainly found Bukhan Mountain quite magical. And since it’s just minutes away from downtown Seoul, consider a visit the next time you want a natural getaway.