Songgwang Temple

Deep in South Jeolla Province is one of Korean Buddhism’s three most important temples, Songgwangsa (송광사). The name, which translates as the “Extensive Pines Temple,” was originally founded as Kilsangsa about 1,200 years prior during the Silla Dynasty. As one of the nation’s “Buddhist jewels,” Songgwang Temple is one of the main training centers for Korea’s Jogye Son (zen) sect and has produced 16 national masters, including Master Chinul.

Colorful roof eaves placed close together.

As is too often the case, fire and war have taken their toll on the temple, which underwent six major reconstructions up until the Korean War, when all of the main buildings were destroyed. A partial renovation was completed in 1983, and today about 52 major structures dot the Songgwangsa campus.

After enduring several fires and wars, today about 52 buildings remain.

Songgwangsa is located on the northwest slope of Jogye Mountain. The temple’s architecture complements its surroundings. An arched stone bridge with pavilion spans a formal moat while one building juts out over the water.

Brilliant paint characteristic of Korean Buddhist temples and palaces.

Beautiful royal blue boards with shiny gold paint proclaim each building’s name, while some gates’ ornate roofs are spectacular, yet appear disproportionately large. Inside the Main Buddha Hall (송광사 대웅보전) are three Buddhas that represent the three states of existence – past, present and future. Four Bodhisattvas are located on either side of each Buddha. The Main Hall’s two-layered roof-line is an attractive architectural element I don’t recall seeing on other Korean temples.

A stupa erected in honor of Master Chinul affords nice views of the temple complex and surroundings.

As mentioned previously, some 16 national masters studied at the Songgwangsa “Sangha Jewel Monastery.” The first of them, National Master Chinul had a stone stupa erected in his honor in the year 1213. A steep staircase leads up to the sculpture. From there, a nice view of the temple complex can be enjoyed.

Songgwangsa’s no-frills toilet facilities (more modern facilities are also available).

Beyond the serene setting, attractive layout and brilliant paint, Songgwang Temple is the site of some very traditional toilets. An attractive building set upon an attractive pond has two rows of wooden chambers inside. Although spotlessly clean, there’s a conspicuous lack of toilets, despite the universal restroom signs. And then you look down and see the large rectangle gap in the floor, where one’s waste falls into the pond below.

Many restaurants and this curious hotel are located at the entrance to the temple.

Leading to the temple, are a large number of restaurants located in large, two-story buildings with traditional tile roofs. There’s also an intriguing hotel on site for  adventurous overnight guests.

Getting There:
→ From Seoul, the Saemaeul trains to Suncheon take approx. 4.5 hours at 34,800 won per ticket each way. Buses from Seoul’s Central City terminal leave every 30-70 minutes. The 4.5 hour ride costs between 19-28,000 won.

→ From Suncheon, take the City Express Bus No. 111. The 1-hour 20-minute ride will cost under 2,000 won.

(A version of this text will air on TBS eFM on September 19, 2009.)