21 Apr 2010, Posted by Matt in Best of DK.com, Buddhist Temples, Historic Korea, Jeolla, Nature, 1 Comments

Saseongam: The Four Sages Hermitage

Saseongam is a small Buddhist temple set dramatically into a wall of exposed granite on a foothill of Korea’s sacred mountain, Jirisan.

12 Feb 2010, Posted by Matt in Art & Culture, Nature, Seoul, Transportation, 2 Comments

Gwangnaru Pedestrian Bridge

The Gwangnaru Pedestrian Bridge originated as a citizen’s suggestion and has become a pedestrian-friendly, park-like pathway connecting the city’s northern and southern halves.

01 Sep 2009, Posted by Matt in Art & Culture, Chungcheong, Festivals & Holidays, Food & Drink, Gangwon, Gyeonggi, Gyeongsang, Historic Korea, Jeolla, Nature, 2 Comments

Autumn 2009 Festivals Calendar

Summer may be peak festival season in Korea, but I much prefer traveling during the autumn months, when the temps fall, the leaves turn and the crowds are a little less crazy. What follows are some of Korea’s best autumn festivals.

19 Dec 2008, Posted by Matt in Art & Culture, Chungcheong, Historic Korea, 2 Comments

Gongju’s Songsanri Tombs

Gongju’s well-kept royal burial mounds turn gold in autumn.

During ancient Korea’s Three Kingdoms period, the culturally sophisticated Baekje Kingdom (18BCE-660) sought a new capital when its principal city near Seoul was sacked. The city of Gongju (then Ungjin) was chosen, and for 63 years its spectacular temples and palaces thrived until the city was destroyed by a Silla-Tang China coalition in 660.

Today, this town in South Chungcheong Province has several important cultural attractions that remind guests of Baekje’s glory, but often escape notice from travelers to Korea. And among the most interesting is the Songsan-ri Burial Mounds.

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19 Nov 2008, Posted by Matt in Art & Culture, Best of DK.com, Historic Korea, Jeolla, 15 Comments

Jeonju’s Hanok Village (Part 1)

The Jeonju Hanok Village in North Jeolla Province is a great place to sample Korea’s traditional food, tea, paper-making and hanok architecture.

30 Oct 2008, Posted by Matt in Buddhist Temples, Gyeonggi, Historic Korea, Nature, Seoul, 0 Comments

Fall Color at Mt. Bukhansan

Phenomenal views from the top of Bukhansan Mountain.

Bukhansan Mountain (also known as Samgak Mountain) has formed much of Seoul’s northern border since the Joseon Dynasty. The name means “mountain north of the Han river”… which is exactly where it is! Today, one of Korea’s oldest national parks covers nearly 80 square kilometers and features 1,300 different types of plant and animal life. Something I noticed shortly after moving to Korea was that Koreans love hiking, and the 5 million of them who visit Bukhansan annually make the park the world’s busiest, in terms of the number of visitors and park size.

During much of Korea’s history, the mountain was hotly contested. An earthen fortress was built here in 132 by a Baekje king who sought to stop the southward expansion of the rival Gogurye. After battles against the Mongols, the Japanese, and the Manchus, in 1711, the Joseon King Sukjong (숙종) greatly expanded the wall by constructing a stone fort on top of the original fortress’ ruins. Today, the 12.7-kilometer wall encircles more than 1,600 acres.

Bukhan Mountain’s most popular spots are its dramatic granite peaks. The most famous is Baekundae, which tops off at 836.5 meters. During the final half-kilometer of my ascent, the smooth and steep granite surface required me to hoist myself up via metal cables. Exhausted, during a break, I could hear the faint chanting of Buddhist monks whose temples dot the mountainside.

After summiting, I enjoyed the spectacular view. Seoul’s northern reaches were in clear sight. I could see the Han River winding its way through the city with Seoul Tower in the distance. Below me, I noticed a halmoni, or grandmother. She had chosen a rocky perch to bow, pray and make offerings of food. I’d heard this was a common part of Korean shamanism. I’m not sure if that’s what she was doing, but 40 minutes later, this 80-year-old woman took her cane and started making her way back down the granite mountainside.

On my way back down, I met two hikers who suggested descending via a couple of beautiful valleys. The lush tree foliage formed verdant canopies over the stone steps and small streams. I guess I was distracted by all of the beauty because I made one or two wrong turns and found myself at a large Buddhist temple.

Doseon Temple belongs to Korea’s Jogye Buddhist order. Built during Korea’s Silla period, the faithful still come here to pray for the nation’s defense. The temple is best known for a 30-foot tall image of Buddha that’s carved into a cliff. According to legend, in the 9th Century, a monk split a huge rock in half with a tap of his cane and created the image through supernatural powers.

As a nature lover, I certainly found Bukhan Mountain quite magical. And since it’s just minutes away from downtown Seoul, consider a visit the next time you want a natural getaway.

17 Oct 2008, Posted by Matt in Buddhist Temples, Historic Korea, Jeolla, Nature, 7 Comments

Gimje’s Gold Mountain Temple

Geumsansa Temple’s (금산사) main courtyard features the impressive 3-story high Maitreya Hall, Goryeo-era stone sculptures, and gorgeous trees.

Until a couple of weeks ago, I had never visited North Jeolla Province. So when a friend of mine invited me to come along with her on a weekend trip, I jumped at the chance. North Jeolla-do has long been Korea’s rice bowl, and its terraced rice paddies and natural areas are famed for their beauty. During my travels there, one of my favorite places was Geumsansa, or Gold Mountain Temple, which is located between the cities of Jeonju and Gimje (김제).

Geumsansa Temple is located on the slopes of Moak Mountain. Founded over 14 centuries years ago during the first year of King Beop (법왕) of the Baekje Kingdom, the temple is best known for its Maitreya Hall, which houses the massive Mireuksa Buddha, and is Korea’s only remaining 3-story pre-modern building. The gorgeous structure features dozens of colorful paintings. And each corner of its three roofs requires a supporting column, due to the weight of the ornate eaves.

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