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24 Dec 2009, Posted by Matt in Festivals & Holidays, Seoul, Video, 5 Comments

Video: Seoul Snow Jam 2009


This is my fourth winter in Seoul, and while it does get awfully chilly at night, there’s just something about how this city celebrates the season that makes it a fun time to be here. For example, if you walk by the Lotte Department Store in Myeong-dong or the Shilla Hotel along Euljiro Street, you can always count on fantastic displays of colored lights, and the other day I almost got run over by a horse-drawn carriage lit up like a Christmas tree prancing towards the Cheonggyecheon (청계천) [video].

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11 Nov 2009, Posted by Matt in Festivals & Holidays, Seoul, 10 Comments

Ppeppero Day and Other Quirky Korean Holidays


20091112_holiday_pepero

If you take a look at the date, November 11th, and use the number “11” in lieu of the month’s full name, you may notice that you have four “1”’s all in a row. Well, in Korea, that’s all you need to create a popular holiday.

And since the mid-1990s, November 11th has been celebrated as “Ppeppero Day,” named after a snack sold by the Lotte Confectionary Company. The long cookie sticks, typically dipped in chocolate, share the same shape as the number “1” and thus, have inspired an annual ritual of young lovers and office workers exchanging gift boxes of the candy. Not surprisingly, everywhere from swanky department stores to corner convenience marts all try to cash in on the marketing gimmick turned cultural phenomenon.

The food industry is doing its best to promote March 3 (pronounced “sam-sam” in Korean) as samgyeopsal day, the day to celebrate the delicious thick slabs of Korean bacon. May 2nd is designated “Duck Day,” the following day, May 3rd is “Osan Day,” when you should eat squid and pork, June 2nd is a day designated for eating organic products, July 5th is Loach Soup Day (I don’t know what that is) and September 9th (pronounced “gu-gu”) is when everyone should eat chicken.

20091112_holiday_teddiesPpeppero Day has become a popular holiday to show one’s affection to lovers, classmates and coworkers.

Korea has seemingly dozens of these quirky, informal holidays that are enthusiastically celebrated by young people, although many are popular regardless of age. And in a nation that’s obsessed with girlfriends, boyfriends and, “When are you getting married, anyway?”, it’s no coincidence that most of the holidays are centered around love.

20091112_holiday_whitedayWhite Day, which occurs on March 14th, is when men are supposed to buy gifts for the ladies.

Of course, there’s Valentines Day, which is celebrated with gusto in Seoul, but local custom demands that it’s women who give the gifts on February 14th. March 14th, on the other hand, is the popular “White Day,” when men are supposed to return the favor at three-times the value of the gift they received back in February. Clever, ladies!

While these two holidays are foreign imports, V-Day originally from Great Britain and White Day from Japan, there are many other second-tier holidays that are wholly Korean inventions. April 14th is the dreaded “Black Day.” Also known as “solo regiment” (솔로부대), this day mourns those without a love interest. But unlike the other holidays, you won’t see sidewalks filled with chocolate towers or pink baskets since there’s really nothing to sell on Black Day except jjajangmyun, a Chinese-inspired noodle dish served in dark sauce that’s become the holiday’s signature dish.

20091112_holiday_coldstoneDespite the cold temps, Ppeppero Day means that most convenience stores, drug stores and confectionary companies like Cold Stone Creamery station staffers outside to hock goods.

But why stop there? Korea’s quirky holidays just keep going. The 14th of every month has been designated a love-related holiday. Supposedly May 14th is Rose day, although it’s also Yellow day. Anyway, June 14th is Kiss Day and July 14th is Silver Day, a holiday when you exchange silver rings with your lover. I’m a bigger fan of August 14th, also known as Green Day, when couples drink bottles of the alcoholic beverage soju, which is typically sold in green bottles, and then you’re supposed to go take a walk in the woods. For those of us in the urban jungle of Seoul, I guess the Cheonggyecheon Stream will suffice. If these numerous love days prove successful, then you can celebrate May 21st, the designated “Married Couples’ Day,” and perhaps a bit later (or not), June 6, which is “Baby’s Day.”

20091112_holiday_basketsTeddy bear + Ppeppero gift baskets on sale November 11th.

These latter days don’t enjoy widespread celebration, but this so-called “day marketing” has proven lucrative for local businesses. Analysts say that Lotte, the makers of Ppeppero, sell two-thirds of their candy sticks inventory in November alone, a business garnering the company a reported 44 billion won in 2005, according to the Wall Street Journal.

20091111_garaetteokThe Korean government is hoping to steal some of the limelight from Ppeppero Day by launching its own day in honor of chalk-shaped rice cakes.

In recent years, the government has been trying to cash in on November 11th’s cachet, by promoting its own treat. Since 2006, the Ministry for Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries has promoted 11-11 as Garaetteok Day in honor of the stick-shaped rice cakes. Created to promote domestic rice consumption, the ministry has crafted mascots and promotional events to wrest the day away from Ppeppero. But something tells me that November 11th will remain one of Korea’s quirky “love” holidays, for many years to come.

(A version of this text aired on KBS World Radio on November 11, 2009.)

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21 Apr 2009, Posted by Matt in Buddhist Temples, Festivals & Holidays, Food & Drink, Historic Korea, Seoul, 4 Comments

Seoul’s Lotus Lantern Festival 2009


20090421_boyThe Lotus Lantern Festival (Photo courtesy of Festival organizers)

Can you tell it’s festival season in Korea?

Well, if this is news to you, starting on April 24, Korea’s Buddhist community will celebrate the birth of the Buddha with an extravagant, 11-day festival of light called the Lotus Lantern Festival (연등축제). Buddha’s birthday is celebrated on the eighth day of the fourth lunar month, which, this year falls on May 2nd.

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09 Dec 2008, Posted by Matt in Historic Korea, Nature, Seoul, 7 Comments

The Cheonggyecheon Stream


Much has been written about the Cheonggyecheon (청계천), the 5.8-km restored stream that magically starts in the heart of downtown Seoul and courses through the neighborhoods of Jongno and Dongdaemun before it meets the Jungnangcheon (중랑천) and eventually empties into the mighty Han River.

Completed in 2005, the restoration of the historic waterway was a major success for then Seoul mayor (now president) Lee Myung-bak. It gave the former Hyundai Construction executive international plaudits and “green” credentials as the Cheonggyecheon (“cheon” means stream in Korean) was regarded by many as a major success in urban renewal and beautification. Beauty didn’t come cheap. The initial price tag was estimated to be 900 billion won (approx. $900 million), but an additional $12 trillion won is expected to redevelop the adjacent neighborhoods into major commercial and residential areas.

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