If you take a look at the date, November 11th, and use the number “11” in lieu of the month’s full name, you may notice that you have four “1”’s all in a row. Well, in Korea, that’s all you need to create a popular holiday.
And since the mid-1990s, November 11th has been celebrated as “Ppeppero Day,” named after a snack sold by the Lotte Confectionary Company. The long cookie sticks, typically dipped in chocolate, share the same shape as the number “1” and thus, have inspired an annual ritual of young lovers and office workers exchanging gift boxes of the candy. Not surprisingly, everywhere from swanky department stores to corner convenience marts all try to cash in on the marketing gimmick turned cultural phenomenon.
Many may assume that Korea is a tea-based culture. Indeed, Korea has an indigenous tea culture that goes back centuries. But ever since King Gojong became the nation’s first and best-known coffee lover in the late 1800’s, coffee has taken the nation by storm.
More recently, the wildly popular TV drama, “Coffee Prince” captured Korea’s love of java. Today, global giant Starbucks competes with local brands like Holly’s, Ediya and Café Pascucci. But while you can get a decent cup of joe at any of these places, paying 5,000-won or more is a small extravagance. So, why not enjoy your bitter brew at one of Seoul’s best cafés?
Design seems to be a passion of Seoul Mayor Oh Se-hoon. At the very least, he’s put an emphasis on improving the city’s aesthetics, from restricting the unsightly signage that clutters up the sides of many buildings to commissioning a top architect like Zaha Hadid to create a 400-billion won Dongdaemun Design Park and Plaza.
The latter was to coincide with Seoul being named the 2010 World Design Capital, but as such huge projects tend to go, the 83,000-cubic meter plaza is now set to be completed in 2011. So in the meantime, Seoul City officials have sought to build public interest and enthusiasm for good design through the Seoul Design Olympiad.
Although I’m completely unqualified to do so, here’s a quick Korean language lesson.
The word “san” (산) in Korean more or less means mountain. That’s why every mountain in Korea has the “-san” suffix, e.g. Seoraksan, Bukhansan, Jirisan, etc. Trouble is, living here I’ve become familiar calling Korea’s peaks by their Korean names (fancy that!), so calling Jirisan “Mount Jiri” just doesn’t feel right. When translating to English, however, it’s unclear that it’s a mountain without the obligatory “Mt.” title. So what’s my awkward compromise? Mount (Mountain Name)-mountain… something tells me my opinion on this will change shortly.
Anyhow, given that autumn color has started here in Seoul, I wanted to put up some photos from a quick trip last year to, ahem, Mt. Gwanaksan (관악산), located in Southern Seoul.
Here’s a new video blog about the Cheonggyecheon (청계천), perhaps Seoul’s best-known urban renewal project. To read the original post with photos, go here.
The onset of autumn each year in Seoul often means an uncharacteristic calm and quiet in the city. No, it’s not that over 10 million residents decide to slow down to watch the leaves change. It’s because late September or early October marks Chuseok (추석), Korea’s annual thanksgiving holiday that’s among the most important dates on the Korean calendar.
As a modern city, Seoul has adopted many of the conveniences of our globalized society. So, today, it’s commonplace to see familiar global brands, foreign fast-food chains and the fusion of eastern and western styles and cultures.
Of course, these adaptations are convenient for many of us, yet they often lack the specific Korean cultural flavor that makes living in Seoul a special and unique experience. Luckily, truly Seoul-specific places do remain in the city, and in my experience, some of the best ones are the traditional markets. Among them, my favorite is the Jungang, or Central Market (중앙시장), located near the city’s Great East Gate, better known as Dongdaemun.
I’m getting very excited for the annual danpoong (단풍) or autumn leaves here in Korea. And, thanks to an anonymous commenter, now we have the 2009 “color predication” chart for South Korea (I’ll admit the term is a new one for me).
Anyhow, thanks to David Hasenick’s site and I hope this helps folks plan their autumn trips… I’ve got plans to visit Naejang Mountain, Seorak Mountain, Jusanji and Gyeongju… just hope they all pan out!
I’m always surprised by how quickly a metropolis like Seoul can transform into bucolic countryside, thanks to the city’s efficient rail network. In under an hour and for less than two dollars, one can step out of the hustle of Seoul and into rural Korea.
One of the best places within easy reach is Yangsuri (양수리). Located in Gyeonggi Province’s picturesque Yangseo Township, Seoulites know Yangsuri as a convenient and romantic getaway — the perfect place for a day-trip or weekend escape. Located at the confluence of the north and south forks of the Han River, the island-like Yangsuri is the kind of place that can put an urbanite back in sync with nature..
For over 20 years, the curved pink glass tower known as the 63 or yooksamBuilding (육삼빌딩) has stood on the eastern tip of Yeouido Island. Beyond its beauty, the iconic home of the Daehan Insurance Company was Asia’s tallest skyscraper when it was completed in 1985. As a testament to the skyward race since then, today the tower’s 249 meters don’t even break the world’s top 100 list..
Deep in South Jeolla Province is one of Korean Buddhism’s three most important temples, Songgwangsa (송광사). The name, which translates as the “Extensive Pines Temple,” was originally founded as Kilsangsa about 1,200 years prior during the Silla Dynasty. As one of the nation’s “Buddhist jewels,” Songgwang Temple is one of the main training centers for Korea’s Jogye Son (zen) sect and has produced 16 national masters, including Master Chinul.
I’m in the process of migrating DiscoveringKorea.com to a more flexible blogging software… It will take a few days to re-work the design and fix technical kinks. Afterward, I expect to introduce some great new features.
In 2002, Korea and Japan welcomed the world as joint hosts of the World Cup football tournament. Soccer stadiums were erected all across Korea. Seoul’s World Cup venue was placed at the city’s far western end in a place that many people probably wouldn’t have selected just a few years earlier.
That’s because World Cup Stadium is located next to the Nanjido Landfill, a massive disposal site that operated until 1993. Like any metropolis, Seoul produces millions of tons of garbage, and Nanjido was the nation’s largest uncontrolled landfill. But what may sound like an inauspicious place was transformed into a pretty spectacular one when nature was encouraged to reclaim the land.
Summer may be peak festival season in Korea, but I much prefer traveling during the autumn months, when the temps fall, the leaves turn and the crowds are a little less crazy. What follows are some of Korea’s best autumn festivals. Also be sure to check out the Korea Tourism Organization’s great new interactive festival website (Go here and then look for the festivals icon on the right side).
During Seoul’s hot, late summer weeks, if you’re walking along the colorful streets of the Hongik University neighborhood, you may very well happen upon a seemingly impromptu performance. That’s because for the past 12 years, Seoul has hosted perhaps Asia’s largest Fringe Festival, a three-week showcase of independent and underground art installations.
During the summer, Korea’s national flower, the mugungwha (무궁화) or Rose of Sharon, is in bloom across the city. And each year, August 15th is celebrated as Gwangbokjeol (광복절), or Korean Independence Day. But before Korea’s liberation, millions of Koreans participated in activities to free themselves from Japan’s brutal colonialism. And perhaps the most important site in that struggle is Tapgol Park (탑골공원), in central Seoul’s Jongno District.
Some of the Discovering Korea blog’s recent visitors came here by way of TBS eFM 101.3, and here’s why. Starting this past Saturday, I’m hosting a new travel segment on the Saturday edition of The Steve Hatherly Show, produced by Jin Min.
Just like my other Korea-related travel and culture shows, each week I’ll describe a new destination in Korea. But what’s different is the show’s conversational format. Originally from Canada, Steve has lived in Korea over nine years, and so far it’s been fun to talk with him on the radio about travel opportunities on this beautiful peninsula. Just like my KBS shows, I’ll cross-post content to this blog.
If you’d like to listen to my new show and you’re located in the greater Seoul area, tune into TBS eFM 101.3 MHz on Saturdays, between 14:05-16:00. The show is also available in Busan, Gwangju and elsewhere in Korea. PC-users can listen via TBS’s TOY Internet Radio – a free download is available on their site.
Finally, I’d like to incorporate listener tips and questions, so I hope you’ll send them my way. Have a great week!
August 15th is Gwangbokjeol (광복절) or Korean Independence Day, which celebrates the defeat of the Japanese during WWII and Korea’s liberation after 35 years of oppressive colonial rule.
In honor of the day, let’s head to Cheonan, South Chungcheong Province to visit the Independence Hall of Korea. The extensive complex was opened to the public in 1982, and serves to collect, preserve and display a wealth of data about the Korean civilization, with a special focus on the nation’s early 20th century independence movement against Japan.
On August 1st, 2009 Seoulites welcomed their city’s newest landmark. After 15 months of renovation, Gwanghwamun Plaza (광화문 광장) is now open to the public and is sure to become a major city attraction.
One of the best things about Seoul is its efficient and inexpensive public transit system. It’s a mind-boggling number, but the metro rail system facilitated over two billion passenger rides in 2008. Seoul’s network is the world’s third most heavily used, behind only Tokyo and Moscow.
Today, the massive system consists of 15 lines, with two more to open in the next year. On June 24, 2009, the inaugural journey of Metro Line 9 began at 7:00 am from Gaewha Station (계화역) in western Seoul for its 25.5-kilometer journey to Sinnonhyeon Station (신논현역), in southern Seoul.
I wanted to introduce a new device that I picked up during a quick week spent in the U.S. a couple of weeks ago. So far I’m liking my mino-HD Flip Video camcorder. The picture and sound quality is better than my previous camera, and it’s just easier to use, mostly thanks to its small size and built-in USB.
It’s not all great, however. Things get awfully blurry while panning and the zoom button can be awkward to push. Also, when editing it’s been more difficult to stabilize the video… but overall, so far so good. Now I just need to learn how to use a tripod! I’m looking forward to hearing what you think of future videos. If you have other toys to suggest, I’d like to hear about them.
In June 2009, the United Nations’ scientific and cultural organization, UNESCO, added 40 royal tombs built over five centuries to its list of world heritage sites. The list includes nearly 900 places of cultural or physical significance located in some 148 nations.
Currently, South Korea has nine world treasures on the list, with three of them located inside Seoul. Although most of the Joseon Dynasty’s royal mausoleums are located outside the capital city, eight tombs are within the city’s limits. So to celebrate the honor, we’ll take a look at two of Seoul’s Royal Tombs.
In lieu of the Eiffel Tower or Sydney’s Opera House, Seoul city officials believe that natural landmarks can best symbolize the city. Like the taeguk, the yin-yang symbol at the center of the South Korean flag, the Han River creates harmony as it calmly bisects the massive city.
Thankfully, 12 riverside parks line the Han River. These 40 square kilometers of park lands are visited by nearly 60 million people annually, and ambitious efforts are underway to improve this already impressive network of green space in central Seoul.
Late June is typically when the jangma (장마), or monsoon season hits the Korean Peninsula. This means three weeks or more of heavy downpours, and even when it’s not raining, it’s still muggy and hot. Given these conditions, I thought it time to profile a good place that’s inside and air-conditioned.
The Gangnam Underground Shopping Arcade (강남지하상가) is located beneath the Express Bus Terminal in Seoul’s Seocho District. From the terminal you can take a bus basically anywhere in South Korea. Since three subway lines converge here, you can imagine it’s a busy place. Come here during rush hour and it’s quite a slog trying to move against the current of human bodies that’s transferring between subway lines.
Seoul is always changing. In what feels like just weeks an old neighborhood is razed and huge new apartment towers stand in its place. This dynamism is part of the city’s excitement. But in this relentless push forward, too many of Seoul’s most historic areas are being destroyed. One example is Pimatgol (피맛골), located in the central Jongno District. Read the rest of this entry »
Sorry for the 1.5-week blogging hiatus. I’ve been filling in for a friend at the news side of KBS and haven’t had time to post. But thanks for your patience and I’ll upload a couple of video posts and even a good, ole-fashioned non-video post of a destination outside of Seoul shortly.
When looking at the urban grit of Seoul neighborhoods, you’re forgiven if the words “good design” don’t come to mind. But seeing how quickly South Korea rebuilt after a devastating civil war, it’s not surprising that design just wasn’t a priority.
However, observing traditional Korean architecture and culture, it’s obvious that in times of peace and prosperity, pre-modern Korea honed a highly sophisticated design aesthetic. Which is why today, as a world economic power, it makes sense that South Korea is eager to recover its design legacy. In fact, Seoul’s mayor, Oh Se-hoon (오세훈) has made it one of his top priorities.
Spurred into action by Mr. Michael H.’s recent comment, here is a quick run-down of 12 summertime festivals going on around Korea. They’ll be hot and busy, but that’s what summer in Korea is all about. If you go, I’d love to hear about it!
Muju Firefly Festival (Muju, North Jeolla Province) June 13-21
Hurry down to South Jeolla Province to see one of Korea’s natural monuments in action. The firefly is the inspiration behind this festival, which also includes trout fishing and rafting.
(more info: call +82-63-1330 or visit here [Korean only].)
3rd World Taekwondo Culture Expo (Muju, North Jeolla Province) July 3-10
In the run up to finishing a Taekwondo Park in 2013, the city of Muju holds its expo celebrating Korea’s national sport. Events include an “extreme” Taekwondo performance, a Taekwondo musical and an open tournament. If that’s not enough, participate in making a large vat of Jeonju bibimbap for 1,000 people.
(more info: call +82-63-1330 or visit here.)
On Saturday, an estimated 1,500 people marched along the Cheonggye Stream (청계천) in downtown Seoul. The main event of the 10th annual Korea Queer Culture Festival (KQCF) marked South Korea’s largest-ever celebration of homosexuality. The procession was led by a troupe of pungmul folk musicians and three trucks outfitted with rainbow flags, dance platforms and speakers playing Korean pop. Locals wearing “God made Queer” buttons marched with foreign English teachers and teen boys donning mouse ears and pleated skirts.
Seoul’s Incheon Airport (ICN) has received yet more industry plaudits. This time around, the 2009 Skytrax survey of some 8.6 million passengers named Incheon the best airport in the world, edging out perennial favorites Hong Kong International and Singapore Changi International. Free internet, showers, and one-to-six hour guided sightseeing tours while you wait for your connection will do that. I’m a huge fan.
Once upon a time, Seonyu Island (also known as Seonyubong) had a small peak and picturesque, jagged cliffs. This beautiful setting inspired wandering Confucian gentleman scholars, or seonbi (선비), who came here during the Joseon Dynasty to paint and compose poetry.
Before Buddhism was introduced to the Korean Peninsula some 1,600 years ago, many Koreans practiced an indigenous shamanism that worshipped mountains. When Buddhism arrived, it mixed with local traditions, which is why, even today, most Korean temples are located on mountain slopes.
In 889, Bongwon Temple (봉원사) was founded by the great master Doseon on what is today the campus of Yonsei University. But in 1748 the temple was moved a few hundred meters away to the south foot of An Mountain (안산).
I’ve uploaded a new Discovering Korea video blog, this time looking at a very Seoul phenomenon~ the pet café. Take a look at urbanites in trendy Hongdae among dozens and dozens of cats and dogs. I hope you enjoy it!
(A version of this video was uploaded to the KBS World site on May 13, 2009.)
On this week’s show, how about we take a cruise? But this isn’t just any cruise, but a boat ride through the center of one of the world’s largest cities. Surely anyone who has visited Seoul knows of the mighty Han River (한강). Originating on two mountains, one in South Korea and the other in the North, the Hangang, as it’s known in Korea, winds along peacefully for over 500 kilometers before passing through Seoul on its way into the West or Yellow Sea.
I’d like to apologize for the paltry posting of late. After arriving back in Seoul about a week and a half ago, I’ve been in catch up mode on various obligations. I hope to be back to regular travel blogging very soon. Thanks for your patience.
In a city as huge as Seoul, finding your bearings can be a challenge. But on this week’s show we’ll take a look at a Seoul icon that helps city residents secure their sense of place. When King Taejo (태조왕) moved Korea’s capital to present-day Seoul in 1394, he protected it with 18 kilometers of fortress walls that connected four mountaintops. Namsan (남산), which means “South Mountain,” formed the city’s southern border.
Korea’s national anthem describes a country that is the length of 3,000-ri (리). Translated into the metric system, 3,000 ri is roughly 120 kilometers, which is pretty darn close to the actual distance of the peninsula from its northern border with China to its southern-most tip in the South Sea.
This southern tip is called Ddangkkeut (땅끝) or Tomal (토말), both of which mean “edge of the land”, and it’s where the Korean peninsula ends and the ocean begins. Beyond this point the sea is broken only by the hundreds of picturesque islands that dot Korea’s southern coastline.
Last year, my friends Do-hoon and KBS World’s Abby Rhodes took three days to explore Korea’s Donghae, or East Sea. During our three-day exploration of Gangwon Province, , on day 1 we explored the mountains, and on day 2 we explored the sea.
Of course, Korea’s east coast is the first place to see the sun rise here, and many Koreans visit it to make a wish on special days like the lunar New Year. Although our special wish for no rain was already granted, we awoke at 4 am anyhow to see the sun rise at Naksansa Temple (낙산사).
One of Korea’s most beautiful spots is Anmyeondo Island (안면도) in South Chungcheong Province. Especially during the summer months, the area attracted some 100,000 tourists annually. Yet on December 15, 2007, this special area along Korea’s West Sea coast became the site of the nation’s largest-ever oil spill. Some 12,500 kiloliters of oil devastated the local tourism and fishing industries.
For better or worse, the Korean people are no strangers to overcoming tragedy, so in short order locals sought ways to reinvigorate their local economy. To that end, they’ve decided to boost the domestic floricultural industry. To see what they have in mind, one must only visit Korea Floritopia 2009 (안면도 국제꽃박람회).
