10 Sep 2009, Posted by Matt in ALL DESTINATIONS,Nature,Seoul,Video, 9 Comments
Seoul’s Haneul or “Sky” Park
In 2002, Korea and Japan welcomed the world as joint hosts of the World Cup football tournament. Soccer stadiums were erected all across Korea. Seoul’s World Cup venue was placed at the city’s far western end in a place that many people probably wouldn’t have selected just a few years earlier.
That’s because World Cup Stadium is located next to the Nanjido Landfill, a massive disposal site that operated until 1993. Like any metropolis, Seoul produces millions of tons of garbage, and Nanjido was the nation’s largest uncontrolled landfill. But what may sound like an inauspicious place was transformed into a pretty spectacular one when nature was encouraged to reclaim the land.
Don’t let the bugs scare you, the park wasn’t terribly buggy.
Seoul is surrounded by green hills and mountains, so what would be two conspicuous buttes in other cities can pass for typical topography here. So, guided by a 1994 master plan, city planners covered the mounds in a meter of soil, and, combined with the adjacent Stadium plot, created six major parks.
A bridge connects World Cup Stadium Park with Haneul Park. Note the 291 stairs that lead to the top.
The highest of the six is Haneul Park (하늘공원). Haneul means “sky” in Korean, and this park alone covers some 192,000 square meters. A blue arched bridge connects the stadium area to a zigzagging staircase. Affixed to each stair is a little plaque with a number. Exactly 291 stairs takes you to the top, where you can see fantastic views of Bukhan, Gwanak and Nam mountains and the Han River. Some 85 different varieties of plants and wildflowers grow in Haneul Park, although the vast plateau is famous for its hectares of cogon grass and eulalia. Each October when Seoul’s skies are especially blue and the reeds turn a golden hue, the park hosts a popular festival.
Tables appear sporadically among the acres of grass.
But during the times that I’ve visited, I’ve had the massive park virtually to myself, and its height and placement in the far west of the city can make the busy urban landscape disappear. Walking along the dirt paths that cut through the wild grasses, you’ll come upon tables and parasols for picnickers. But if you prefer to gaze out over the city, modern benches resembling large, smooth stones feature prominently on the park’s 22 peripheral lookout points. They’re a great place to watch an orange and pink sunset over the Han River and Gayang Bridge.
Smooth, modern benches located on one lookout point with wind turbines generating green power for the park.
When Haneul Park was created, it was designed with conservation and the preservation of biodiversity in mind. To that end, five wind-powered generators produce electricity to operate the park’s lamps, while the methane gas produced underground by the landfill is recycled as fuel for the stadium and nearby apartments. This is important since methane production at landfill sites can pose significant health and environmental risks.
This bunny was so tame I don’t think it qualifies as “wildlife.”
So far, Haneul Park’s environmentally-friendly design has enticed ducks, pheasants, cranes, kestrals and several other types of birds back into Seoul. Even the endangered narrow-mouth frog, named as the park’s flagship species, lives here. I didn’t see any frogs, but I did spy a curiously tame rabbit. So whether you’re looking for a nice walk, a great view or some peace and quiet in a fast-paced metropolis like Seoul, I’d suggest visiting Haneul Park.
Haneul Park features many lookout spots perfect for watching the sun set over the Han River.
More Information:
World Cup Park Official Site (in English)
Getting There:
→ Haneul Park is part of the World Cup Stadium complex and can be accessed via Seoul Metro Line 6′s World Cup Stadium Station (exit 1).
(A version of this text aired on KBS World Radio on September 2, 2009.)
9 Comments
20 July 2010 14:15
Marina Lemanu’a @Twitter Name
What a Beautiful Park. I hope one day I get to visit.
10 November 2010 16:05
Carol @lady_crol
Is it advisable to visit Haneul Park during these days? Thanks! :)
November 10 2010 23:16 pm
Matt
Ya, I think it would be gorgeous right now with the straw-colored cogon grass and the deep blue skies! The festival took place in October, so it shouldn't be too busy. Hope you can check it out!
Best, Matt
6 July 2011 18:55
Sophia
Interesting, want to go in this weekend.
What is the best time to go to this Skypark? Please advice.
July 07 2011 08:10 am
Matt
Hi Sophia,
Best time? Well, if it's hot I'd suggest going in the morning, since it's a long walk (or stair climb) to the park from the adjacent World Cup Park. In terms of season, I think autumn is best, when the fields of pampas and cogon grass turn yellow. I hope you have fun!
Best, Matt
7 July 2011 12:10
Sophia
Matt, thanks for your reply.. I thought it is best to watch sunset there.. as I have limited time at Seoul, i guess I will visit there at late afternoon (around 4:30pm) on Sunday. How long will it take to go to the park? 1 hours? 2 hours? Will it close at night?
July 09 2011 23:48 pm
Matt
Hi again, Sophia,
I think sunset could be a great idea! Although... forecast says it might rain tomorrow. If you take the subway to World Cup Park Station (Line 6), I'd guess it would only take about 20 minutes to climb the steps and reach the actual park. Once you're there, it's basically just a huge field of grasses. There is a cool sculpture that you can climb for even better views. There are also a number of lookout points on the park's periphery.
If you want, there's also a cool pedestrian bridge from World Cup Park down into the Nanjido Hangang riverside park. Oh, and there's also a fairly large public market on the park's eastern side next to a busy road, and there's a small Hangang Renaissance and/or Design museum nearby.
I hope you have fun! Best, Matt
13 March 2012 01:50
Benjamin Williams @Twitter Name
Anyohasayo Matt,
cheidumun Ben Williams imneda,
I want to thank you very much for your editorial,and video of these wonderful sights and sound of this park. I have had the wonderful and very memorable pleasure of being stationed in South Korea in the US Army from 1989 until 1991 all three years in a row. Myself one one of my best friends another American soldier always on our time off or the weekends left out base of station which was just outside of Munsan got ona train at Munsan and went into Seoul and either rented a hotel room in Seoul or hopped another train to another city in Korea. We loved every day of every minute being stationed there, we loved the people, the culture, the women
and for of you not understanding what I mean, there are two classes of women, those that are very affiliated with US military bases, and those that are not. I am talking about those whom are not familiar with American service men on a day to day bases. These are the classy, educated and women mostly from good breeding and family stock.
My friend and I never could make up our minds where to go, alot of the time since he and I had our own pagers and we were both the rank Sergeants we were given more freedom to go about because we were responsible, and very respectful towards our generous host Korea. We both often rode our road bicycles from Munsan to Seoul, or to points beyond would get a nice hotel room, and then hit the streets, and let our adventures begin. Oh I have make note Korea has lots and lots of wonderful coffee shops to stop and relax at, the themes vary and no two are ever alike. And yes were ever we went we made lots and lots of Chingo (Friends) I mean real sincere friendships. We would also go to the country side and stay at a house that had rooms for rent, and yes we even planted or picked rice from the feilds, picked cyan peppers, shucked rice from the stalk, planted or picked vegetables and in general just became one with the locals. Since my buddy and I were body builders we did not partake to often in sharing Mokolie Rice Wine, or Soju which is very potent to the non drinker.
We loved the little convenience stores which are everywhere and always stocked with everything a local, or traveler needed. In the hot summer months we would always get ice cremes and the quarts of juice my favorite was mango yummmmmmmmmmmmmm.
And in the winter months we would stop in Seoul or Inchon, or Pusan or where ever we were and eat at our favorite side street tents which one could have ramen, or dukbokke another yummy food, or warm chestnuts or hot sweet potatoes, Gosh we had fun.
Even when were were on military exercises we had fun with the locals, my buddy and I were very protective of the locals and always addressed other military service men who were out of line with the locals.
after our second year in Korea we would often rent a little Korean car and man o man we always headed out to the coast for some san nok che, live squid or octopus, yummy.
Anyway I just wanted to share with you.
I watch Korean Drama at dramafever.com and this past weekend I watched a Man Named God an action movie and the locations of shooting were all over Korea and Hawaii. I saw a lot of the places in Korea I had visited and I was home sick for my friends in Korea and Korea its self.
For those of you planning or contemplating a tour of Korea please go, dont be a hotel rat, get out and I mean really get out go to the country side meet the locals, have a drink and kimchi with them, sure they are very country but they are some of the nicest people you are ever going to have the pleasure of meeting. Stay away from the tourist areas, ask the hotel concierge to get you a taxi driver that speaks english and ask he or she to take you to places normally visited by the Korean locals, and go to the mountains the fresh spring water wells are wonderful.
Sincerely
Ben Williams
March 26 2012 11:32 am
Matt
Hi Ben,
Thanks so much for the wonderful post!
Best,
Matt
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