01 Oct 2009, Posted by Matt in Festivals & Holidays,Food & Drink,Gyeonggi,Seoul, 3 Comments

Happy Chuseok 2009!

The onset of autumn each year in Seoul often means an uncharacteristic calm and quiet in the city. No, it’s not that over 10 million residents decide to slow down to watch the leaves change. It’s because late September or early October marks Chuseok (추석), Korea’s annual thanksgiving holiday that’s among the most important dates on the Korean calendar.

My family’s Chuseok feast.

Chuseok is a time to share food with one’s family and to thank the ancestors for a bountiful harvest. To celebrate, literally millions of Seoul participate in a mass exodus from the city to their ancestral hometowns in the provincial heartland. The result is that Seoul’s typically hectic streets are uncharacteristically quiet, as shops stay shuttered and people brave several hour backups along the nation’s highways.

A snapshot of my eldest uncle’s wedding, circa 1976.

But for residents or visitors to Seoul who don’t have Chuseok plans, don’t fret, because the city won’t be totally abandoned. City officials have made sure that everyone can participate in Korea’s cultural heritage by taking part in a number of Chuseok-related events around the city. Here’s a brief look at just some of them.

Namsangol Hanok Village is located on the north base of Nam Mountain.

At the base of Nam Mountain is the Namsangol Hanok Village (남산골한옥마을). The village’s theater will play host to a “Harvest Moon Festival” this year. Traditional performances ranging from the rousing horn, drum and cymbal ensemble salmulnori to the ancient shamanistic ritual dance called Salpuri will be on display. But what makes this year’s show all the more special is that performers from the Academy of Korean Music, including the renowned folk musician Lee Gwang-su, will perform during the special Chuseok holiday weekend concerts.

Additionally, the National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts will host its “Asia Hangawi Festival.” Hangawi is another name for Chuseok, and this festival will feature traditional folk games outside the Center’s campus in Byeolmajiteo Plaza. In addition to Chuseok, the event will also celebrate two Asian harvest festivals, including Vietnam’s Tet Trung Thu and China’s Mid-Autumn Festival. Folk groups from both countries will perform alongside Korean artists in a special multi-nation Autumn showcase.

The National Folk Museum of Korea is located on the grounds of Gyeongbok Palace.

Another event is taking place at the National Folk Museum of Korea, which is on the grounds of Gyeongbok Palace. To get an idea of how the Chuseok holiday has evolved in recent history, the Museum will hold a special event looking at Chuseok during the 1970s. Faithfully-reconstructed barbershops, clothing and music stores from 30 some years ago were recreated for viewing, and will be accompanied by timeless folk performances on October 1 and 2 from 10 am to 2 pm.

The Independence Hall of Korea will be open during Chuseok.

Other popular venues are also staying open for Chuseok, and they include the Independence Hall of Korea, the War Memorial of Korea, the Namsan Cable Car, Hangang River Cruise, and COEX Aquarium.

If you’re interested in visiting one of Seoul’s five main palaces, or the Jongmyo Shrine, you’re also in luck because all five palaces will be open during regular hours. And, if you enter wearing a traditional Korean hanbok, the entrance fee is waived.

The Jongmyo Shrine, perhaps Korea’s greatest example of honoring one’s ancestors, will also be open during Chuseok.

Several cultural and performance venues will also keep their doors ajar this holiday weekend. The National Theater of Korea will be closed on Monday, but on October 3rd they will offer a free gugak, or traditional Korean music musical. Chongdong Theater, Seoul Arts Center and the National Museum of Contemporary Art will also be open during their usual hours, which means open all week, except on Mondays.

And finally, if cultural events aren’t what you want to do this weekend, the Seoul area’s main theme parks – Lotte World, Seoul Land and Everland – will also remain open.

(A version of this text aired on KBS World Radio on September 30, 2009.)