8 Nov 2009
Seoul’s Best Cafés, Part 1
Many may assume that Korea is a tea-based culture. Indeed, Korea has an indigenous tea culture that goes back centuries. But ever since King Gojong became the nation’s first and best-known coffee lover in the late 1800’s, coffee has taken the nation by storm.
More recently, the wildly popular TV drama, “Coffee Prince” captured Korea’s love of java. Today, global giant Starbucks competes with local brands like Holly’s, Ediya and Café Pascucci. But while you can get a decent cup of joe at any of these places, paying 5,000-won or more is a small extravagance. So, why not enjoy your bitter brew at one of Seoul’s best cafés?
Cabae Duream is located high above Seoul’s Sinchon neighborhood in the Artreon cinema building.
Cabae Duream
One of them is located in Western Seoul’s Sinchon neighborhood, a rowdy area popular among university students. Yet located high above the bustling sidewalk is a peaceful place committed to fine coffee.
Despite taking coffee very seriously, Cabae Duream features some whimsy.
Cabae Duream (가베두림), named after King Gojong’s original coffee blend, is located on the top floor of the Artreon Cinema building. Some 13 stories above the street, the café is also a coffee museum. The highly-trained baristas take their craft very seriously, even offering so-called “MBA” seminars.
The café’s outdoor terrace is spacious and afford 180-degree views of western Seoul.
But for me, the café’s outdoor area is its charm. A few tables are set among landscaped beds lined by a hedge of Korean boxwoods. Three-stories of open space are topped by a lattice covered in vines, whose small yellow leaves drop delicately following a breeze.
Tasty coffee and cheesecake are on offer at Cabae Duream.
Located atop a theater, the café offers special 2-for-1 discounts if you bring your movie ticket. And once there, you can enjoy impressive views of the Han River and even the COEX Korea World Trade Center many kilometers away. And yet, coffee prices are comparable to the chains. But only here can you find a Gold Cappuccino, Lemon Squash “Beau-tea” and delicious dark chocolate cookies with candied nuts.
Coffeest is located near Gyeonghuigung Palace in the Nasu-dong neighborhood.
Coffeest
A few subway stops away is our next café. Tucked behind west Seoul’s Gyeonghuigung Palace along a quiet street in Nasu-dong is Coffeest. The cozily cluttered, single-room shop is a popular oasis in a neighborhood better known for its publishing companies and upper crust homes. The owner, formerly an aspiring filmmaker, fell in love with the art of roasting coffee while studying abroad in England.
The décor is a bit cluttered, but cute and clean.
Today, artsy types study via laptop on a sturdy wood table, or seated around a handful of smaller ones for twos and threes. The café offers plenty of distractions to occupy you while a handmade beverage is prepared. Small toys, knick-knacks, and items seemingly in search of an art project are on hand. The last time I visited there was a bin of pens and photo postcards.
Delicious coffee and cheesecakes served in attractive cups and saucers.
Coffeest serves several kinds of coffee and tea, as well as cheesecake and panini sandwiches. All are served on a mix and match collection of beautiful cups, saucers and cutlery and refills are free. Weather permitting, the three outdoor tables are a pleasant setting, and free wifi Internet is available.
Finally, on your way to the restroom, you’ll no doubt notice you’re walking atop a glass floor. Inches below you is the excavated foundation of a former palace building, when the Joseon Dynasty’s capital palace complex was among Asia’s largest. Indeed, Korea’s royal connection to coffee lives on.
Getting There:
→ Cabae Duream can be accessed via Sinchon Station on Seoul Metro Line 2. Take exit 4 and walk 200 meters to the Artreon Cinema Building. Ride the elevator to the 13th floor.→ Coffeest can be accessed via Gwangwhamun Station on Seoul Metro Line 5. Take exit 7 and walk towards Seodaemun. Turn right at the Salvation Army Center and walk 400 meters to Sungkok Museum. It’s on the left..
(A version of this text aired on KBS World Radio on October 14, 2009.)



Gosh Matt, I was about to pop that question!(where can I find interesting cafes in Seou?) I always ended up in either Starbucks or Coffee Bean & Tea leaves in the past, will certainly visit the places you’ve recommended. And how about showing us some great western tea places too?
Solotune
November 9th, 2009 at 01:37permalink
The Sinchon place is certainly appealing. It seems like there’s a lot of coffee shops where the attention to creating a unique ambiance is just as much as the passion for brewing the perfect cup? Was it just because of the Coffee Prince drama trend?
lunare
November 9th, 2009 at 22:18permalink
Hi Solotune!
Glad I read your mind^^
By “western tea places” what do you mean? These two cafes aren’t traditional Korean tea houses. Do you mean the chains?
~Matt
Matt Kelley
November 12th, 2009 at 08:55permalink
Hi Lunare,
Thanks for your latest note! Yes, I hear from folks who have lived here longer that the coffee shop craze is a pretty recent phenomenon (1990s), so before Coffee Prince, but still a new thing here. In some neighborhoods (Sinsa-dong, Hongdae, Samcheong-dong) it’s frankly kind of ridiculous how many cafés there are… but a lot of them do have pretty interesting design motifs, delicious treats, etc. I’m definitely not a coffee connoisseur, but I imagine serious coffee artisans like those at Cabae Duream are in the minority.
~Matt
Matt Kelley
November 12th, 2009 at 08:57permalink
Hi Matt,
I mean would there be places that specialises in tea rather than coffee but not the traditional tea like those in the Insadong area.
Solotune
November 14th, 2009 at 22:52permalink
Hi Matt~
I’ve never been those cafes despite i’m living in Seoul, South Korea. But I’m gonna visit that cafe(Coffeest) soon ~ This cafe is located near 안국station, right?
hyeonjeong
November 15th, 2009 at 15:57permalink
Hi Hyeonjeong,
Thanks for your note. No, this café is behind Gyeonghuigung Palace between 광화문역 and 서대문역… Here’s a link with Korean info: http://r.wingbus.com/seoul/gwanghwamun/coffest_ghm/
Oh, and I like your blog! I’ve been in touch with Hyeonsuk at VANK and hope to profile Seoul Breeze on my KBS interview show soon!
Best, Matt
Matt Kelley
November 15th, 2009 at 20:15permalink
Ms. Solotune:
Ah… I’m sure there are but I haven’t run into them lately. Although I did visit a charming French-themed place today that had some 15+ varieties of tea (but coffee, too). I ordered some sweet ginger tea, which had ginger slices in the bottom. It was delicious and just what my throat needed. Anyhow, I’ll keep my eyes peeled for non-traditional, tea-specific haunts and will report back if/when found! Have a good week! ~Matt
Matt Kelley
November 15th, 2009 at 20:18permalink
Hey Matt, thanks for the tip on Cabae Duream. It’s nice to see some green in this concrete jungle. I’ll be sure to check it out soon.
Maybe you might be interested in some of my food adventures in Korea, check it out at http://www.foodcoma911.com
Take care^^
Jenny Cleary
January 20th, 2010 at 10:34permalink