Seoul’s Best Cafés, Part 1

Many may assume that Korea is a tea-based culture. Indeed, Korea has an indigenous tea culture that goes back centuries. But ever since King Gojong became the nation’s first and best-known coffee lover in the late 1800’s, coffee has taken the nation by storm.

More recently, the wildly popular TV drama, “Coffee Prince” captured Korea’s love of java. Today, global giant Starbucks competes with local brands like Holly’s, Ediya and Café Pascucci. But while you can get a decent cup of joe at any of these places, paying 5,000-won or more is a small extravagance. So, why not enjoy your bitter brew at one of Seoul’s best cafés?

Cabae Duream is located high above Seoul’s Sinchon neighborhood in the Artreon cinema building.

Cabae Duream

One of them is located in Western Seoul’s Sinchon neighborhood, a rowdy area popular among university students. Yet located high above the bustling sidewalk is a peaceful place committed to fine coffee.

Despite taking coffee very seriously, Cabae Duream features some whimsy.

Cabae Duream (가베두림), named after King Gojong’s original coffee blend, is located on the top floor of the Artreon Cinema building. Some 13 stories above the street, the café is also a coffee museum. The highly-trained baristas take their craft very seriously, even offering so-called “MBA” seminars.

The café’s outdoor terrace is spacious and afford 180-degree views of western Seoul.

But for me, the café’s outdoor area is its charm. A few tables are set among landscaped beds lined by a hedge of Korean boxwoods. Three-stories of open space are topped by a lattice covered in vines, whose small yellow leaves drop delicately following a breeze.

Tasty coffee and cheesecake are on offer at Cabae Duream.

Located atop a theater, the café offers special 2-for-1 discounts if you bring your movie ticket. And once there, you can enjoy impressive views of the Han River and even the COEX Korea World Trade Center many kilometers away. And yet, coffee prices are comparable to the chains. But only here can you find a Gold Cappuccino, Lemon Squash “Beau-tea” and delicious dark chocolate cookies with candied nuts.

Coffeest is located near Gyeonghuigung Palace in the Nasu-dong neighborhood.

Coffeest

A few subway stops away is our next café. Tucked behind west Seoul’s Gyeonghuigung Palace along a quiet street in Nasu-dong is Coffeest. The cozily cluttered, single-room shop is a popular oasis in a neighborhood better known for its publishing companies and upper crust homes. The owner, formerly an aspiring filmmaker, fell in love with the art of roasting coffee while studying abroad in England.

The décor is a bit cluttered, but cute and clean.

Today, artsy types study via laptop on a sturdy wood table, or seated around a handful of smaller ones for twos and threes. The café offers plenty of distractions to occupy you while a handmade beverage is prepared. Small toys, knick-knacks, and items seemingly in search of an art project are on hand. The last time I visited there was a bin of pens and photo postcards.

Delicious coffee and cheesecakes served in attractive cups and saucers.

Coffeest serves several kinds of coffee and tea, as well as cheesecake and panini sandwiches. All are served on a mix and match collection of beautiful cups, saucers and cutlery and refills are free. Weather permitting, the three outdoor tables are a pleasant setting, and free wifi Internet is available.

Finally, on your way to the restroom, you’ll no doubt notice you’re walking atop a glass floor. Inches below you is the excavated foundation of a former palace building, when the Joseon Dynasty’s capital palace complex was among Asia’s largest. Indeed, Korea’s royal connection to coffee lives on.

Getting There:
→ Cabae Duream can be accessed via Sinchon Station on Seoul Metro Line 2. Take exit 4 and walk 200 meters to the Artreon Cinema Building. Ride the elevator to the 13th floor.

→ Coffeest can be accessed via Gwangwhamun Station on Seoul Metro Line 5. Take exit 7 and walk towards Seodaemun. Turn right at the Salvation Army Center and walk 400 meters to Sungkok Museum. It’s on the left..

(A version of this text aired on KBS World Radio on October 14, 2009.)